Sandlewood Shave Soap

First off, I stumbled upon this article about discounting the water content in order to speeden the curing process:

http://southernsoapers.com/news/soapmaking-tutorials/discounted-water-cold-process-soap-methods/

I was very excited about this because the writer said cure times can be reduced to two weeks. I'd like to stop oven-baking to accelerate the curing as I'm worried that degrades the fragrance/essential oils, but am impatient and don't want to wait two months for a bar of soap to be ready. So I decided to try it out on some shave soap that I've been meaning to make. Huge mistake.

Here's my recipe:

I blended attributes of the two shave soap recipes I posted previously, maintaining a heavy castor oil presence and about 1 tbs/lb of bentonite clay (this is important for providing slip to the razor). Jojoba oil was my own addition. Jojoba is supposed to have healing properties which is appropriate given that shaving ravages your skin. I discounted the water content heavily, going to the lowest amount they recommended to someone who had never done this before.

I combined the oil and lye, added a tbs of clay and a tbs of colloidal oatmeal and blended for about 30-60s before hitting trace. Now here's where things started going wrong. I only had a sandlewood sample size (1/2oz) so I wanted to divvy the mixture up and fragrance quarter of it with OMH. I was able to get a quarter out which I had LP fragrance with OMH while I mixed the sandlewood FO in. By this point, the mixture began to thicken, achieving a putty like consistency. I quickly started pouring into bowls, but by the last one, I was scooping it out and packing it into the bowls. Discounting water was not the right move for soaps that need to be poured into bowls and where a flat surface is desirable.

I casted about 100g into each bowl and got 5 bowls total.